北京烤鸭 Běijīng Kǎoyā

皮色枣红酥脆、鸭肉细嫩,荷叶饼一卷,甜面酱一蘸

京菜(北京菜) · 约3小时(不含隔夜晾坯) · 3至4人份 · 较难 · 皮酥肉嫩、咸鲜回甘

北京烤鸭(京菜(北京菜))成品图

用料

做法

  1. 鸭洗净擦干,从鸭翅根部的小口取出内脏并洗净;用长竹签从翅根与腿根穿过,把鸭撑成扁平状。
  2. 把鸭架在盛满清水的瓶口上(家庭版用来替代传统灌气撑皮),置于阴凉通风处晾鸭皮。
  3. 兑挂皮水:麦芽糖用100毫升温水化开,加白醋、料酒搅匀备用。
  4. 烧一锅水至大滚,架起鸭子用滚水反复浇淋鸭皮4至5次,每次浇淋前让水重新滚开,浇到鸭皮绷紧、表面出现细密小点即成烫皮。
  5. 趁热在鸭皮内外刷一遍挂皮水,提起晾干;每隔约40分钟再刷两遍,共晾2小时以上,至表皮干燥发紧、颜色淡黄。
  6. 烤箱预热200摄氏度;鸭腿与翅尖包锡纸,烤盘铺锡纸并盛少量清水,鸭腹塞入葱姜与苹果块。
  7. 鸭胸朝上入炉,200度烤40分钟;取出翻面,调至170度再烤20分钟;再翻回鸭胸朝上,继续170度烤15分钟,至表皮枣红油亮,出炉晾5分钟。
  8. 片鸭:先片胸腹、再片腿,每片带皮,摆入盘中(挂炉片法讲究每块肉上都带皮)。
  9. 烙荷叶饼:面粉加盐,用约80度热水边冲边搅成絮,揉成团醒30分钟;搓条下剂擀成圆片,两片一组刷油相叠再擀薄;平底锅不刷油,小火每面烙8至10秒,见饼身鼓起大泡,趁热撕开成两层。
  10. 甜面酱用少许清水澥开稀释;码上荷叶饼、葱白丝、黄瓜条与鸭片,客人自取自卷。
小贴士
  • 烫皮与晾坯两步决定皮是否酥脆,缺一不可;鸭皮没晾透就烤,表皮发皱不脆。
  • 传统挂炉用枣木或梨木明火直烤,家庭用烤箱靠反复挂皮水加高温逼出皮下脂肪,脆度接近而烟香略逊(传统多用果木明火,可按口味与器具调整)。
  • 片鸭带皮是挂炉讲究,焖炉路子则是皮肉分离;市售带皮鸭片可省去片鸭这一步。
  • 荷叶饼一次多烙数张,用湿布盖住保温;只烙一张必然跟不上吃。
烤鸭的雏形可上溯南北朝的炙鸭与元代《饮膳正要》所记的烧鸭子;明代便宜坊在米市胡同以焖炉开炉,清代同治年间全聚德改用果木挂炉,两派技艺在2008年一同列入第二批国家级非物质文化遗产名录。
标签:烤鸭挂炉宴客菜京菜招牌荤菜
English version

Peking Duck

Lacquered crisp skin over tender duck, rolled in thin pancakes with sweet bean sauce, scallion and cucumber.

About 3 hours, plus overnight drying · 3 to 4 · Hard · Crisp skin, tender meat, gently savoury

Ingredients

Steps

  1. Clean and dry the duck, pull the innards out through the small opening near the wing joint and rinse them; thread long skewers through the wings and legs to flatten the bird.
  2. Stand the duck on a bottle filled with water (a home substitute for the traditional pumped-open skin) in a cool, well-ventilated place to dry the skin.
  3. Mix the maltose syrup with the warm water, then stir in the vinegar and cooking wine.
  4. Bring a pot of water to a rolling boil and ladle the hot water over the duck skin four or five times, letting the water re-boil between pours, until the skin tightens and beads with tiny blisters.
  5. Brush the glaze over the skin while still warm and hang the duck to dry; brush twice more at about 40-minute intervals and dry for over two hours until the skin is taut and pale gold.
  6. Heat the oven to 200C. Wrap the legs and wing tips in foil, line the tray with foil plus a little water, and stuff the cavity with spring onion, ginger and apple.
  7. Roast breast-side up at 200C for 40 minutes, turn and drop to 170C for 20 minutes, then turn breast-side up again for 15 minutes until the skin is deep glossy red-brown. Rest 5 minutes.
  8. Carve the breast first, then the legs, cutting each slice with a strip of skin attached, and arrange on a plate.
  9. Make the pancakes: mix flour with salt, pour in water at about 80C while stirring to shaggy flakes, knead and rest 30 minutes; roll small rounds, brush two at a time with oil and roll thinner, then griddle each side for 8 to 10 seconds until puffed and split them open.
  10. Loosen the sweet bean sauce with a little water and serve with the pancakes, spring onion shreds, cucumber and sliced duck for guests to roll themselves.
Tips
  • Scalding and drying the skin decide the final crispness; skip either and the skin wrinkles instead of crackling.
  • Traditional hanging ovens roast over jujube or pear wood in open flame; a home oven relies on repeated glazing and high heat to render the fat, so the crunch is close but the woodsmoke is lighter (traditionally fruit wood, adjust to your gear and taste).
  • Slicing with skin on is a hanging-oven convention, while closed-oven duck separates skin from meat; ready-sliced duck with skin saves you the carving step.
  • Griddle several pancakes at once and hold them under a damp cloth; a single pancake will never keep up.
The dish traces back to the roasted duck of the Northern and Southern Dynasties and the 'burnt duck' recorded in the Yuan dynasty Ying Shan Zheng Yao. Bianyifang opened with a closed oven in the Ming, Quanjude switched to a fruit-wood hanging oven in the Qing, and both lineages joined the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage in 2008.
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