道口烧鸡 Dàokǒu Shāojī

八味香料与一锅老汤煨出的元宝形烧鸡,骨肉轻抖即分离

豫菜(河南菜) · 4小时(不含老汤养护) · 4至6人份 · 较难 · 咸香醇厚、肥而不腻

道口烧鸡(豫菜(河南菜))成品图

用料

做法

  1. 选鸡宰杀:取一只半年至两年的本地柴鸡(活重约1.5至2公斤),宰前静养排酸,60至65度温水浸烫退毛,腋下开口净膛,清水浸去血污后沥干。
  2. 造型:斩断肋骨、压扁胸膛,用细高粱秆横撑开腹腔,双翅交叉衔入鸡喙,两腿弯折插入腹下小孔,整只收作两头尖的饱满元宝形,晾至表皮干爽无水。
  3. 上色:饴糖或蜂蜜按水六蜜四调匀,遍涂鸡身内外,晾透后再复涂一遍,让糖衣薄而匀。
  4. 炸色:油温升至150至160度,提住鸡头将热油淋炸30至60秒,表皮转柿红透金即捞出控油,皮不可发焦,须为老汤入味留出毛孔。
  5. 卤制:老汤入大锅,武火煮沸,投入扎紧的八料纱包与葱姜盐糖,码入炸鸡并以竹篾压住,汤汁没过鸡身大半,转文火保持汤面微微翻滚。
  6. 文火慢焖:嫩鸡焖2.5至3小时,老鸡延至3.5至4小时,全程火不可猛,猛则肉散架、急则香不入肌。
  7. 关火浸焖:离火不揭盖,靠余温再浸约4小时,把香料香逼进骨缝。
  8. 起锅:捞出沥去汤汁,鸡皮柿红油亮,筷夹轻抖骨肉自行分离,肥处化油不腻,瘦处汁丰不柴。
小贴士
  • 造型是这道菜的第一道符印,两头尖的元宝状全靠撑腹与交叉双翅完成,撑不好整鸡下锅就散。
  • 蜜水六蜜四、晾透复涂一遍,是柿红透亮色泽的关键;一次刷足容易发花成斑。
  • 淋炸三十至六十秒即止,重在定型上色而非炸透:炸过头皮焦、肉柴,老汤也进不去味。
  • 八料配比各家略有出入(传统多用陈皮、肉桂、豆蔻、良姜、丁香、砂仁、草果、白芷),可按口味调整;老汤越陈越厚,家中初做可用高汤加少量老卤替代。
清顺治十八年(1661)张炳在滑县道口镇创铺卖鸡,初无特色;到乾隆五十二年(1787)偶遇清宫御厨,得十字真诀“要想烧鸡香,八料加老汤”,遂改号义兴张。一锅代代续煮的老汤,熬出中原最著名的一只元宝形烧鸡,二〇〇九年列入河南省非遗,二〇一〇年获国家地理标志保护。
标签:卤味名鸡宴客非遗技艺中原名吃
English version

Daokou Roast Chicken

A treasure-shaped chicken simmered in a century-old master broth with eight spices, so tender the meat falls off the bone.

4 hours (excluding broth ageing) · 4 to 6 · Hard · Rich, savory and mellow

Ingredients

Steps

  1. Choose and dress the bird: a six-month to two-year-old local chicken weighing 1.5-2 kg, rested before slaughter, scalded in water at 60-65 degrees, opened under the wing, rinsed and dried.
  2. Shape it: break the ribs, flatten the breast, prop the cavity open with a sorghum stalk, cross the wings over the beak, tuck the legs into small holes below, forming a plump two-pointed ingot shape, and dry the skin.
  3. Colour the skin: mix maltose or honey with water at a 4 to 6 ratio, brush the whole bird, let it dry, then brush a second time for an even thin coat.
  4. Fry for colour: bring the oil to 150-160 degrees, lift the chicken by the head and ladle hot oil over it for 30-60 seconds until the skin turns persimmon-red and translucent, then drain at once without letting it scorch.
  5. Braise: bring the master broth to a rolling boil, add the tied spice sachet with scallion, ginger, salt and sugar, arrange the chicken and weight it down with splints so the broth covers more than half of it, then drop to a bare simmer.
  6. Simmer gently: 2.5 to 3 hours for a young bird, 3.5 to 4 hours for an older one; the fire must never be fierce or the meat will fall apart and the aroma will not penetrate.
  7. Rest in the residual heat: turn off the heat without lifting the lid and let it soak for about 4 more hours, driving the spice fragrance deep into the bone.
  8. Lift out: drain off the broth. The skin glows red and glossy, the bone and meat separate with the lightest touch of chopsticks, the fatty parts melt without greasiness and the lean parts stay juicy.
Tips
  • The shape is the dish's first signature: the two-pointed ingot depends on propping the cavity and crossing the wings, otherwise the bird falls apart in the pot.
  • The 4-to-6 syrup ratio and a second coat after drying give the even persimmon-red shine; painting it all at once tends to blotch.
  • The 30-60 second ladle-fry sets the colour rather than cooking the meat; scorching the skin makes it tough and blocks the broth.
  • The proportions of the eight spices differ slightly by maker (traditionally tangerine peel, cassia, cardamom, galangal, clove, amomum, tsaoko and angelica) and can be adjusted to taste; older broth is richer, so for a first attempt use stock loosened with a little old braising liquor.
Zhang Bing opened a shop in Daokou, Hua County in 1661 selling ordinary braised chicken. In 1787 a Qing court chef passed on ten words that changed everything: for chicken to smell right, use eight spices and old broth. The shop was renamed Yixing Zhang, and one pot of broth kept alive across generations produced the most celebrated ingot-shaped chicken of the Central Plains. The technique entered Henan's intangible cultural heritage list in 2009 and won national geographical indication protection in 2010.
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