排骨藕汤 Páigǔ Ǒu tāng

一碗煨到汤色灰白的藕汤,藕粉肉烂,甜香里带着年味

鄂菜(湖北菜) · 2小时30分钟 · 3至4人份 · 中等 · 咸鲜回甘

排骨藕汤(鄂菜(湖北菜))成品图

用料

做法

  1. 排骨斩成5厘米左右的段,冷水下锅加姜片和料酒焯3分钟,撇净浮沫后用温水冲洗干净,沥干备用。
  2. 砂锅或陶钵中下熟猪油,中火烧热后放入姜块和葱结,煸出香味。
  3. 转旺火倒入排骨翻炒,边炒边按压8至10分钟,至排骨表面收紧、颜色发白出香。
  4. 在排骨变焦之前一次性加盐和剩余料酒翻炒均匀,此时的盐才吃得进肉里。
  5. 倒入清水一次加足,大火烧开,撇去浮沫,转中火煨约20分钟至汤汁开始泛出灰白色。
  6. 排骨约六成熟时下藕块,转中小火盖盖煨约50分钟,其间保持汤面微微冒泡不翻滚。
  7. 起锅前加白糖提鲜、撒白胡椒粉,尝咸淡后撒葱花,连汤带藕装钵上桌。
小贴士
  • 先炒后煨是这碗汤的核心:炒过的排骨才出奶白汤,煨出来的汤才香浓有回味。
  • 盐一定要在翻炒阶段就放,加水之后再放盐就吃不进肉里了;起锅前点一点糖,是让汤味鲜甜的小窍门。
  • 煨藕汤尽量少用铁质器具,尤其不要用铁勺翻搅,否则汤汁容易发黑;砂锅、陶钵最稳。
  • 给水量与气温相关,天热烧得快可多给一点,天冷则酌量少放;汤色灰白、浓而不腻、有回甘为上品(传统多用砂锅明火煨两个半小时以上,钢压力锅可按时间减半调整)。
排骨藕汤是湖北人年夜饭桌上少不了的主角,武汉有“毛脚女婿上门,桌上没得汤不成”的说法,一碗汤既是待客的顶配,也是过年的团圆印记。小桃园煨汤技艺被列入湖北省非遗后,这碗汤的手艺有了正式的传承名分。
标签:汤羹猪肉莲藕宴客菜楚菜经典
English version

Stewed Spare Ribs with Lotus Roots

Wuhan's slow-simmered winter comfort bowl: milky broth, powdery lotus root, tender ribs.

2 hours 30 minutes · 3 to 4 · Medium · Savory with a sweet finish

Ingredients

Steps

  1. Chop the ribs into 5cm pieces, blanch in cold water with ginger and wine for 3 minutes, skim the scum and rinse under warm water, then drain.
  2. Heat 1 tbsp rendered lard in a clay pot over medium heat, add the ginger and spring onion knot and fry until fragrant.
  3. Turn the heat to high, add the ribs and press-fry them for 8 to 10 minutes until the surfaces tighten and turn pale and fragrant.
  4. Add the salt and the rest of the cooking wine before the ribs scorch, and toss until evenly seasoned.
  5. Pour in all the water at once, bring to a boil over high heat, skim, then switch to medium heat and cook for about 20 minutes until the broth turns greyish-white.
  6. When the ribs are about two-thirds done, add the lotus root, cover and switch to low-medium heat for about 50 minutes, keeping the surface at a bare simmer.
  7. Add the sugar and white pepper at the end, taste for salt, scatter the spring onion and serve in the pot.
Tips
  • Fry first, then simmer: only pan-fried ribs give a milky, deeply flavored broth.
  • Salt goes in during the stir-fry. Add it after the water and it will never penetrate the meat; a touch of sugar at the end rounds out the sweetness.
  • Avoid iron vessels, and especially iron spoons, which darken the broth; clay pots and earthenware are the safest choice.
  • Water volume depends on the weather; a greyish-white, rich but not greasy broth with a sweet aftertaste is the mark of a good bowl (traditionally simmered over 2.5 hours in a clay pot; a pressure cooker roughly halves the time).
Lotus root and rib soup is the mandatory centerpiece of the Hubei New Year table. In Wuhan, a prospective son-in-law is told that without the soup on the table, there is no welcome. The Xiaotaoyuan slow-simmering craft is now a provincial intangible cultural heritage, giving the bowl an official lineage.
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