腊汁肉夹馍 Làzhī Ròu Jiāmó

热馍一剖,腊汁肉连汤带肉塞进去,肥肉不腻瘦肉无渣

陕菜(西北菜) · 3小时(炖肉为主,馍随烙随吃) · 4人份 · 中等 · 咸香醇厚,肥而不腻

腊汁肉夹馍(陕菜(西北菜))成品图

用料

做法

  1. 五花肋条顺猪身横切成约一拃长、一指宽的大条,清水浸泡漂洗1小时,中途换水两次,捞出沥干。
  2. 卤锅倒入腊汁汤,旺火烧开,撇净浮沫,肉皮朝上一条条整齐码入锅中。
  3. 放入葱段、姜片,加生抽、老抽、黄酒、精盐,把香料装入纱布袋扎紧口投入锅中。
  4. 用铁箅子压住肉料,使所有肉块都浸在汤面以下,旺火烧开后转小火慢焖。
  5. 焖煮约2小时,中途不断撇除浮沫、翻动肉块,让火候均匀。
  6. 加入冰糖,把肉翻个面,继续小火焖约2小时,至筷子能轻松插透、瘦肉酥而不散。
  7. 捞出拆去骨头,皮朝上码在瓷盘中,晾凉后切1厘米厚的片,越薄越挂味。
  8. 面粉加酵母和温水揉成光滑面团,发酵至两倍大,揉匀排气后擀成长条卷起、分剂子擀成圆饼。
  9. 平底锅或铁铛不放油,小火干烙至一面鼓起,转面再烙,饼面呈金黄圈边、中心虎背菊花心状即可出锅。
  10. 热馍从底部划开不切透,夹入剁碎的腊汁肉,淋一勺卤汁,按喜好加辣酱与香菜蒜苗。
小贴士
  • 肉块不宜切小,长时间卤煮会吃进过多盐分,夹馍时再淋汁就难以下口。
  • 香料务必装袋扎口,既不让碎末浑汤,也让汤色保持清亮挂得住肉。
  • 传统多挂老汤续用,汤愈陈味愈浓、色泽愈佳;家中首次卤制可用高汤代替,往后把卤汁留作老汤反复续用。
  • 馍必须现烙现夹,凉馍回软后酥脆口感全失,掰开时断面应见分层。
腊汁肉的根在周礼八珍的渍与战国的寒肉之间,一路传进长安,最终定型为卤锅里的这一锅陈汤。樊家自一九〇四年在南院门卢进士巷支起摊子,后来挂上义茂春的招牌,讲究的是老汤不断、火候不争。半个多世纪过去,这门手艺在二〇一六年被列入陕西省第五批非遗名录,于是馍香与肉香一起,成了西安人心里最硬的一块凭据。
标签:肉夹馍腊汁肉小吃老字号非遗
English version

Roujiamo (Chinese Meat Burger)

Crisp flatbread split open and stuffed with slow-braised pork in aged broth

3 hours (mostly braising) · 4 · Medium · Deeply savoury and mellow, rich without grease

Ingredients

Steps

  1. Cut the ribs across the body into long finger-width strips, rinse in cold water for 1 hour, changing water twice, then drain.
  2. Pour the lacai broth into the braising pot, bring to a rolling boil and skim the scum.
  3. Lay the meat in a single layer, skin side up; add spring onion, ginger, soy sauces, wine, salt and spices tied in a muslin bag.
  4. Press the meat down with a rack so it stays submerged, bring back to a boil, then simmer.
  5. Simmer about 2 hours, skimming and turning the meat regularly for even heat.
  6. Add rock sugar, flip the meat, and simmer another 2 hours until a chopstick slides through easily.
  7. Lift out, remove the bones, arrange skin side up on a plate, cool and slice 1cm thick.
  8. Knead flour with yeast and warm water, let it double, then roll, shape into flatbreads.
  9. Dry-toast the breads in a hot pan until golden-rimmed and puffed in the centre.
  10. Split the hot bread, pile in the chopped pork, spoon over braising liquid and add chili plus herbs.
Tips
  • Do not cut the meat too small; long braising soaks up salt that makes the finished sandwich too salty.
  • Keep the spices in a bag so the broth stays clear and can be reused.
  • Traditionally an old broth is carried over from batch to batch; at home start with stock and save the finished braising liquid for next time.
  • The bread must be used hot; once it cools it loses its flaky crack.
Lacai pork traces back to the sacrificial 'zi' of Zhou ritual and the Han-era 'han rou', eventually settling in Chang'an's braising pots. The Fan family set up a stall in Nanyuanmen in 1904 and later hung the Yimaochun sign, keeping one long-lived broth over the fire. In 2016 the technique was listed among Shaanxi's fifth batch of provincial intangible cultural heritage, and the pairing of crackling bread with melting pork became Xi'an's most portable signature.
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