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红烧肉 Hóngshāo Ròu

老抽上色冰糖提甜，小火慢炖到汤汁挂肉，肥而不腻入口即化

本帮菜（上海菜） · 90分钟（含焯水与慢炖） · 4人份 · 中等 · 咸甜酱香

红烧肉（本帮菜（上海菜））成品图

用料

做法

  1. 带皮五花肉切成3厘米见方的块，冷水下锅，加姜片与黄酒煮开3分钟，撇净血沫后捞出，用温水冲净沥干。
  2. 锅内放少许油，中火下肉块煸炒约5分钟，逼出表面多余油脂，至四面微黄、肉质微微收紧。
  3. 烹入黄酒40毫升翻匀，沿锅边淋入生抽、老抽，快速翻炒上色。
  4. 放入葱结、剩余姜片、八角、桂皮与冰糖，一次加热水至刚没过肉面。
  5. 大火烧开后转小火，加盖慢炖50至60分钟，中途翻动两三次，让糖色均匀挂肉。
  6. 放入熟鹌鹑蛋再炖10分钟，转大火收汁，不停翻动至汤汁浓稠能挂住肉块，滴几滴明油出锅。
小贴士
  • 本帮红烧肉的色靠老抽、甜靠冰糖，传统多不炒糖色，以免焦糖盖住肉香与酒香；若想要更浓亮的红亮色泽，可减一点冰糖改炒糖色。
  • 收汁阶段要有耐心，酱汁会经历由稀到稠、再到如胶似漆的过程，这层不勾芡自然收出来的芡，才是老饕说的自来芡。
  • 香料宜少而克制，多放桂皮香叶会夺掉本味，只留八角与一点点桂皮即可。
  • 糖量可按口味调整，传统偏甜口；减糖时同步减老抽，免得颜色过深发苦。
这道菜的故事清代袁枚《随园食单》论红烧，一道好菜要红如琉璃，这句话后来成了老饕衡量红烧肉的火候标尺。上海人把咸中带甜、甜而不齁发挥到极致，让这块最寻常的猪肉成了本帮菜最不会出错的那道硬菜。
标签：本帮招牌猪肉浓油赤酱宴客硬菜家常
English version

Red-Braised Pork Belly

Dark soy for color, rock sugar for sweetness, then a long slow braise until the glaze clings like lacquer

90 minutes (including blanching and braising) · 4 · Medium · Savory-sweet, soy-glazed

Ingredients

Steps

  1. Cut the pork belly into 3cm cubes, put into a pot of cold water with ginger and rice wine, boil for 3 minutes, skim the scum and rinse under warm water.
  2. Heat a little oil in a wok over medium heat, sear the pork for about 5 minutes until the fat renders and the surface turns lightly golden and the meat tightens.
  3. Splash in 40ml rice wine, toss to coat, then pour in the light and dark soy sauces along the edge of the wok and stir quickly to color.
  4. Add the scallion knots, remaining ginger, star anise, cassia and rock sugar, then pour in enough hot water to just cover the meat.
  5. Bring to a boil, then cover and simmer gently for 50 to 60 minutes, turning the meat two or three times so the glaze coats evenly.
  6. Slide in the quail eggs and braise 10 more minutes, then raise the heat and reduce, stirring constantly until the sauce is thick enough to cling to the pork; finish with a few drops of rendered pork fat.
Tips
  • In Shanghai style the color comes from dark soy and the sweetness from rock sugar; traditionally no caramel is fried, so the caramel does not mask the aroma of pork and wine.
  • Be patient when reducing: the sauce goes from thin to thick to a glossy, glue-like sheen, and this naturally formed glaze, with no starch added, is what old Shanghai diners call a self-thickening sauce.
  • Keep the spices restrained; too much cassia or star anise drowns out the original flavor, so a star anise and a scrap of cassia is enough.
  • Adjust the sugar to taste, as the traditional version leans sweet; if you cut the sugar, cut the dark soy too or the color will turn dark and bitter.
BackgroundQing dynasty gastronome Yuan Mei wrote in The Suyuan Cuisine that a great red-braised dish should glow red as if glazed with lacquer; that line became the yardstick Shanghai diners use to judge this one. The city pushed the sweet-and-savory idea to its limit, turning an ordinary slab of pork into the most reliable banquet dish of Shanghainese cooking.
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腌笃鲜

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糟钵头

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