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蒙自过桥米线 Guoqiao Mixian

一层滚油封住乳白高汤的烫，生肉片入碗数息即熟

云南菜 · 180分钟（熬汤3小时，另需备料1小时） · 2至3人份 · 较难 · 汤鲜微辣、油润醇厚

蒙自过桥米线（云南菜）成品图

用料

做法

  1. 母鸡、老鸭、猪筒子骨洗净，冷水下锅焯水5分钟去血沫，捞出冲净备用。
  2. 鸡鸭与猪骨一同入汤锅，加清水2000毫升，大火烧开转小火保持微沸3小时；鸡鸭不宜煮烂，中途捞出另作他用，汤色转呈乳白即可取汤。
  3. 汤滤入深口大碗，加盐、味精、白胡椒粉、芝麻油、芝麻辣椒油，再舀入30克猪油或鸡鸭油，油层厚厚盖住汤面。
  4. 猪里脊、鸡脯肉、乌鱼肉分别切成薄片；鱼片入沸水略烫即捞出摊凉；豆腐皮用冷水泡软后切丝，在沸水中烫2分钟再漂入冷水。
  5. 韭菜洗净切段，沸水烫熟后改刀；葱花、香菜切0.5厘米小段，分别装小碟。
  6. 上桌前把滚烫的汤连油层一起端到席上，先下鸡肉片、猪肉片、鱼片，用筷子轻搅数下即烫熟。
  7. 再放韭菜、豆腐皮丝，加葱花香菜，最后放入米线，可边烫边吃；各类肉片也可蘸佐料碟同吃。
  8. 全程注意汤面油层不要被搅破，破了温度骤降，生片就烫不熟。
小贴士
  • 汤面那层油是过桥米线的命门：滚油封温才能让生片在几息内烫熟，搅散油层等于前功尽弃。
  • 熬汤用老母鸡、老鸭与筒子骨同煮才够浓；家庭时间紧张可用鸡架加筒子骨熬2小时，味道略薄但汤底仍可用。
  • 传统多用昭通或蒙自的籼米压制的细米线，也可用米线代替；生片要切到透光才够烫熟。
  • 味精与盐按口味调整；传统多在汤里加少许味精提鲜，家庭可减半。
这道菜的故事相传清时蒙自一位秀才在湖心小岛读书，娘子每日送饭总嫌凉了，后来发现鸡汤上覆盖的一层鸡油如锅盖般能保温，便把清汤与薄切配料分开送、过桥再入汤。此后蒙自过桥米线制作技艺于2014年列入国家级非物质文化遗产代表性项目，成为云南走向全国的一张名片。
标签：红河名小吃米线高汤国家级非遗名小吃
English version

Crossing-the-Bridge Rice Noodles

A cap of hot oil seals the milky broth so thin raw slices cook in seconds

180 minutes (3 hours of stock plus 1 hour of prep) · 2 to 3 servings · Hard · Savory, gently spicy and rich

Ingredients

Steps

  1. Blanch hen, duck and bones in cold water for 5 minutes, skim, then rinse clean.
  2. Simmer all three with 2000ml water: bring to the boil, then hold on a low flame for 3 hours until the broth turns milky white; lift out the poultry so it does not shred.
  3. Strain the broth into a deep bowl, season with salt, MSG, white pepper, sesame oil and sesame chilli oil, then ladle in 30g of melted lard so a thick layer floats on top.
  4. Slice the pork loin, chicken breast and fish paper-thin; blanch the fish briefly and chill; soak the bean curd sheet, shred it, scald for 2 minutes and refresh in cold water.
  5. Scald the chives and cut to length; shred spring onion and coriander into 0.5cm pieces and serve in small dishes.
  6. At the table, pour in the boiling broth with its oil cap intact, then add raw chicken, pork and fish slices, stirring gently so they cook through.
  7. Add chives and bean curd, sprinkle spring onion and coriander, then slide in the rice noodles and eat while they cook.
  8. Never break the oil layer; once it is broken the temperature drops and the raw slices will not cook.
Tips
  • The oil cap is the whole point: it holds the heat so raw slices cook in seconds; break it and the dish fails.
  • Old hen, duck and bones together give the deepest broth; on a weeknight, chicken frames plus bones for 2 hours still work.
  • Traditionally the noodles are fine vermicelli pressed from indica rice; ordinary rice noodles are acceptable. Slice the raw meat thin enough to see light through it.
  • MSG and salt are to taste; traditionally a little MSG is used for lift, so halve it at home.
BackgroundLegend says a scholar studied on an islet in Mengzi, and his wife found that a layer of chicken fat floating on soup acted like a lid, keeping it hot across the bridge; she sent broth and sliced ingredients separately to be finished at table. Mengzi's crossing-the-bridge rice noodle technique entered the national intangible heritage list in 2014 and became one of Yunnan's best-known exports.
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